The Rolex Submariner 16800 bridges two eras: early examples retain the matte dial and painted tritium markers of older Subs, while sapphire crystal and a quickset date bring everyday practicality. That combination makes it especially attractive if you love the look of a vintage Submariner but want fewer compromises when wearing one.
Introduced around 1979, the 16800 replaced the 1680, bringing the higher-beat caliber 3035 and a unidirectional bezel. The choice within the reference is largely about the dial. Early matte-dial examples have a quieter, tool-watch character; later gloss-dial watches, with white-gold surrounds around the hour markers, look closer to the modern Submariner.
Dial originality deserves particular attention here: a later service dial can erase much of what draws collectors to an early example. Some original glossy dials also develop cracking or a matte-looking surface, so distinguish genuine dial aging from a replacement—or from the factory matte finish.
What owners love
- Early matte-dial examples give you the painted tritium markers of an older Submariner, but with a sapphire crystal and 300m water resistance. That particular mix is a big reason owners choose the 16800 over the references either side of it.
- The 3035 brings a quickset date, which makes resetting it much less tedious than on the preceding 1680. Owners appreciate having that convenience without giving up the older case proportions and aluminum bezel insert.
Common Criticisms
- Some later glossy dials develop fine cracks in the lacquer—the so-called “spider” effect. Not everyone finds that attractive; owners who prefer a clean dial can find the uneven appearance distracting.
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