The date window is the thread running through this Submariner family, beginning with the 1680 and its conspicuously raised acrylic Cyclops crystal. From red-letter dials to sapphire-equipped successors and gold cases, these watches trace the point where Rolex’s diver became something more varied than a steel instrument with a black bezel.
The original 1680 arrived in the late 1960s with the automatic 1575. The Submariner 1680 Red takes its name from the single red line of dial text; later steel examples carry the Submariner name in white. Both retain acrylic crystals and the older dial’s painted luminous markers. The Submariner 1680 Gold brought yellow gold into the date-equipped range, with black or blue dial-and-bezel combinations.
The 16800 introduced sapphire, a quickset date through the 3035, and a higher depth rating. Early matte dials give way to glossy dials with white-gold marker surrounds—a substantial visual divide within that reference. The two-tone 16803 and yellow-gold 16808 belong to this sapphire generation, while the short-lived steel 168000 marks the transition to 904L steel.
What owners love
- The tall “top-hat” acrylic crystal gives the dial a depth and edge distortion that owners often miss when wearing a sapphire-crystal Submariner. Light surface scratches can also be polished out rather than becoming permanent reminders.
- On the steel matte-dial versions, the painted hour plots and uncluttered printing are a big part of the attraction. The red Submariner lettering on early “Red Sub” examples adds a small splash of color without changing the otherwise restrained dial.
Common Criticisms
- The 1575 has no quick-set date, so correcting it means advancing the hands through successive days. That gets tedious if you rotate watches and regularly need to reset it.
- The top-hat crystal sits noticeably proud of the bezel, making it easy to knock or scuff. Owners who love its appearance still sometimes find that raised edge awkward under a close-fitting cuff.
Submariner 1680 References
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