Submariner 1680

The Rolex Submariner 1680 marks a pivotal chapter in the Submariner lineage, being the first to introduce a date complication to the series in the late 1960s. Collectors value it for its blend of vintage charm and daily practicality, as well as for its connection to an era when Rolex was refining the tool watch concept for a broader audience. The 1680 is also distinguished by its iconic “Cyclops” date window and the classic 40mm Oyster case, making it both wearable and historically significant.

Among 1680s, the “Red Sub” variants—early models with the word “Submariner” printed in red—command the highest premiums, especially when the dial and text remain original and unfaded. Later models transitioned to all-white text, which are generally more accessible but still highly sought after. The 1680 houses the caliber 1575 automatic movement, known for its reliability and ease of service, but subtle dial and caseback differences between production years drive price and desirability.

When considering a 1680, dial originality is the key value driver; collectors pay close attention to matching hands, correct font variations, and the presence of period-correct “fat font” bezel inserts. Water resistance on these vintage pieces (originally rated to 200m) should be regarded as a historical spec rather than a current guarantee. Expect price variation based on dial type, condition, and completeness—full sets with original box and papers add a meaningful premium.