Explore Daniel Roth

Daniel Roth brought a distinctly personal vocabulary to Swiss watchmaking when he established his namesake brand in 1989. After helping shape Breguet’s modern wristwatches, he carried his taste for guilloché, finely drawn hands, and classical complications into something less conventional: a double-ellipse case, curved at either end and straight along its flanks. It remains recognizable without a name on the dial.

The early Tourbillon watches give that shape a purpose, balancing the display of hours and minutes above the exposed mechanism below. Chronographs and perpetual calendars brought different rhythms to the same outline. The Papillon took a more playful route, pairing jumping hours with rotating minute hands—a mechanical display that rewards watching the changeover rather than simply reading the time.

The brand’s revival under La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton returned to those foundations. Unveiled in 2023, the Tourbillon Souscription combines a yellow-gold double-ellipse case with a gold guilloché dial and the manually wound DR001 caliber, developed specifically for the watch.