Deepstar

The Aquastar Deepstar holds a unique place in dive watch history, debuting in the 1960s as a purpose-built chronograph for professional divers and underwater explorers. Its singular dial layout, featuring a single oversized subdial and distinctive paddle hands, quickly set it apart from other chronographs of the era. Vintage Deepstars are sought after for their authentic tool-watch heritage and direct ties to pioneering underwater expeditions.

Reference numbers such as Ref. 1002 (the original vintage model) and the modern Deepstar Re-Edition offer different ownership experiences. The original houses a Valjoux 23 chronograph movement in a 37mm case, while the re-issues use a Swiss automatic caliber in a slightly larger 39mm format, with updated water resistance to 200m. Pricing varies sharply: vintage pieces command a premium for originality and patina, while the re-editions offer modern reliability and finishing at a more accessible price point.

When considering a Deepstar, inspect the dial—originals often show characteristic aging on the lume and subdial, which adds to their charm and value. The re-editions, released in limited runs, feature subtle dial and case differences across variants, so confirm the exact configuration before purchasing. Bracelet and strap options also impact collectibility, as early examples came with rare mesh bracelets that are now highly valued by collectors.